Food Tour of Bangkok’s Tantalizing Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน)

By Mark Wiens 35 Comments
Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน)
Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน)

After living in Bangkok more or less for the last 3.5 years, I’m always excited when I discover a market I’ve never been to before.

Located just down the road from Ratchawat Market, one of my favorite Bangkok street food areas, is yet another old-school Thai market that’s home to some outstanding restaurants and street snacks.

Bangkok, Thailand
Bangkok, Thailand

Tucked away in the quiet green district of Dusit, not far from the Bangkok Zoo and a few Royal Bangkok attractions, is Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน).

Similar to the ancient Nang Loeng Market, Sriyan is old, rickety, layered with interesting sights, and packed with brilliant food.

Aside from the loud buses, motorbikes, and thundering tuk tuks, the market feels like a throwback in time – a place with just slightly less pollution and noise than the rest of the city.

Just a fifteen minute bus ride from the boisterous Victory Monument roundabout,  one never would have guessed that such a quiet haven exists.

Hot dogs and Thai sausages
Hot dogs and Thai sausages

Vendors selling everything from ancient Thai snacks to modern hot dogs and sai krok sausages set up along Nakhon Chai Si, the main road in and out of the area.

Khao Kriap Wow (ข้าวเกรียบว่าว)
Khao Kriap Wow (ข้าวเกรียบว่าว)

Khao Kriap Wow (ข้าวเกรียบว่าว) is a snack that dates back to the ancient Kingdom of Lanna in Thai history.

A combination of sticky rice flour, eggs, palm sugar, and coconut cream are formed into paper thin pancakes before being tossed back and forth over hot coals using bamboo sticks. The pancake dehydrates quickly, leaving a cracker like wafer that tastes quite similar to crunchy meringue.

It’s actually not my favorite snack in the world, but the preparation process is pretty cool.

Food tour of Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน)
Food tour of Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน)

Things are Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน) seem to move just a little slower than everywhere else in Bangkok.

Thai jungle curry (gaeng pa แกงป่า)
Thai jungle curry (gaeng pa แกงป่า)

Though it’s a few blocks from the market and housed in a rather modern rennovated building instead of an old shophouse Chinese style building, eating at Ran Gaeng Pa Sriyan (ร้านแกงป่า ศรีย่าน) is an absolute must when you visit Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน).

The restaurant is particularly famous for its northern Thai jungle curry (gaeng pa แกงป่า), a spicy medley of bamboo shoots, eggplant, and various other vegetables and herbs.

Though traditionally made with wild boar, we ordered the frog variation, and it made my entire body rejoice with every bite.

Minced quail stir fried in chillies and garlic and herbs
Minced quail stir fried in chillies and garlic and herbs

But the dish that made me jump up and down for joy the most was this plate of minced quail stir fried with a handful of chilies, krachai (similar to ginger), and herbs (nok sab pad kee mao นกสับผัดขี้เมา).

Both the meat and bones from the quail were ground, giving the minced meat a crunchy texture. It tasted quite similar to hamburger, but flavored intensely well.

Basically a pile of rice topped with pork and peanut sauce
Basically a pile of rice topped with pork and peanut sauce

Another well known restaurant just outside the market is Jiew Look Shin Pla Yoawarat (จิวลูกชิ้นปลาเยาวราช).

They’re famous mainly because they serve a few unique Thai dishes you can’t get anywhere else but there.

One of the dishes we had was something known as Khao Pra Ram Lum Song (ข้าวพระรามลงสรง), a plate of rice topped with boiled pork and suffocated in a thick layer of peanut sauce. It was just like satay over rice, and pretty good!

ไอศกรีมศรีย่าน
The ice cream man!

After a full repertoire of restaurant hopping, there’s no better way to polish things off than by stopping by the mom and pop Ice-a-Cream-Sriyan (ไอศกรีมศรีย่าน).

Durian ice cream topped with sweet sticky rice (ไอศกรีมข้าวเหนียวทุเรียน)
Durian ice cream topped with sweet sticky rice (ไอศกรีมข้าวเหนียวทุเรียน)

You can kiss vanilla good bye.

Because their durian ice cream topped with sweet sticky rice (ไอศกรีมข้าวเหนียวทุเรียน) is unbelievably delicious.

During the ice cream preparation they must use only the purest and most pungent of all durians. The flavor was impressively beautiful, so good in fact that after finishing my first bowl, I had zero choice but to order an immediate second.

It’s the best durian ice cream in Bangkok!

Roasted bananas at Bangkok's Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน)
Roasted bananas at Bangkok’s Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน)

And that wraps up the street tour of Bangkok’s Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน). It’s a perfect place for a meal, a stroll, another meal, another stroll, and finally a few helpings of lucious durian ice cream!

Unfortunately Sriyan Market (ตลาดศรีย่าน) is not connected to any Bangkok mass tansit stations. The easiest way to get there is to either take a taxi all the way there or to take the BTS Skytrain to Victory Monument station and then hop on bus #14 directly to the market.


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35 comments. I'd love to hear from you!

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  • Henty Tasman

    3 years ago

    Hi Mark, i have saw more your video of your street foods in every country, i wish could meet you up on my june trip in Bangkok,thx

  • Russell

    3 years ago

    Hello Mark, I visit Thailand every year to escape the Japanese cold. I will arrive in Bangkok in less than a week and I would like to try that minced quail dish you wrote about. It looks yummy. Would you posting the name of the dish in Thai so I can order when I get there. Thank you

    • Mark Wiens

      3 years ago

      Hi Russell, sorry about the late response, have you been there yet? Here’s the name of the dish: นกสับผัดขี้เมา

      • Russell

        3 years ago

        Thank you for the reply. Tomorrow is my last day in Bangkok so I may go to today. to give it a try.

  • Eli

    4 years ago

    I just moved from Si Yan to Bangkok and it warms my heart to see you giving publicity to the lovely people – and incredibly skilled food artisans – of this great market. But I am sad… because I do not speak Thai I missed out on so many of these great dishes! QUAIL?? MINCED FROG?? WHAT THE HECK! Please, please, give detailed instructions on how to find and order these delicacies for when I return to visit my friends this weekend! I beg you!

    • Mark Wiens

      4 years ago

      Hi Eli, great to hear from you, glad that you lived in the Si Yan area before, appreciated the food so much as well. The market really is an amazing spot in Bangkok, and the vendors are really nice. Here are all the ordering details at this amazing restaurant: http://www.eatingthaifood.com/2012/12/thai-jungle-curry/

      • Eli

        4 years ago

        Bless you for the help! Great post, BTW, the only issue is *WHICH RESTAURANT IS IT?* Do you have an exterior shot?

        BTW, I meant I moved from Si Yan to Naklua. Man, what a change in venue. Loved your post on the snails just before, BTW, you have a great blog.

        • Mark Wiens

          4 years ago

          Hey Eli, no problem! Do you mean for Ran Gaeng Pa Sriyan (ร้านแกงป่า ศรีย่าน)? If you click on that link I posted, you should see a photo in the post of the outside of the restaurant, a golden sign with the Singha lion on it. Is that what you were looking for?

          Thank you very much!

          • Eli

            4 years ago

            Indeed, that is what I was looking for… and yet I don’t recognize the sign. OK. Some exploring to do!

          • Mark Wiens

            4 years ago

            Enjoy Eli!

  • Curt

    4 years ago

    LOL!

    How did I overlook Kaeng Pa, your 1st review, in this post !?!

  • Curt

    4 years ago

    Knowing your penchant for all things spicy, in that same area, have you ever visited Kaeng Pa, just east of the Dusit post office? Some of their offerings can bring tears of pleasure!

    Also, along Nakhon Chaisi, next to the gas shop, west of Krungsri Bank, you will find Supaporn’s Padthai shop. Mighty spicy stuff.

    • Mark Wiens

      4 years ago

      Hey Curt, no problem, yes that Kaeng Pa Sriyan restaurant has to be one of my favorites in Bangkok. I’ve walked paste the pad Thai place, but haven’t eaten there yet. Tears of joy!

  • Food tour India

    5 years ago

    Thai food looks amazing. Can’t wait to try durian ice cream

  • Sunee

    5 years ago

    Dear Mark,

    For additional info, Siyan is very easily accessible by numerous buses.

    From Khaosan Road, Banglampoo (outbound bus stop near Industrial Works Department, opposite great Thai sweet taco house, don’t miss it by the way): bus No.3, 30, 32, 33, 64, 524.
    From Siam Square: outbound bus No 16
    From Ratchadamri: Bus No 505
    From Chatuchak: in bound bus No.3, 524
    From Chinatown: Bus No 49.

    The bus stop to get off is opposite now Top supermarket (changed from Edison).

    Have fun, everyone.
    Sunee

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Great, thank you for the additional information Sunee!

  • Trairak

    5 years ago

    Have you tried Kuay Teow Kua Gai (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวคั่วไก่) at Chonticha (ร้านชลธิชา)? It is a famous one and not far from Sriyan Market.

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Hey Trairak, no haven’t tried it there – thanks for the suggestion – I’ll have to try it the next time I’m there!

  • Tony Camilleri

    5 years ago

    Excellent post Mark! Wonderful photos and wonderful Thai food too :-))My belly was crying tell me that he misses Thai food…..Hopefully I will be there next August/September and this market will be my first destination when i will be in Bangkok.

    Regards

    Tony

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Hey Tony, good to hear from you, I know how those belly craving symptoms!

  • Erica

    5 years ago

    What a great (and delicious) find!!

  • Nate

    5 years ago

    That Durian icecream has me dreaming of being in Bangkok… mmmm.

    Also, your photography is looking great Mark, I enjoy seeing the shots of the vendors.

    Take it easy,

    Nate

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Hey Nate, thanks man, that durian ice cream is unbelievably good!

  • Owen Lipsett

    5 years ago

    Awesome post Mark! This market looks great and I’d like to check it out next time I’m in Bangkok.

    The minced quail looks especially tasty – is that an unusual dish to find?

    What’s the best way to get there by bus and/or Skytrain?

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Hey Owen, thanks! The dish is not overly common, but it’s available at quite at a number of places. Best way would be to take the BTS to Victory Monument and then take either a bus or a taxi to the market.

  • Kenji Cheow

    5 years ago

    Gotta say that minced quail stir fried in chillies and garlic and herbs is my favourite dish here in the Philippines…

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Hey Kenji, good to hear that, it’s a great dish!

  • Hannah @ Getting Stamped

    5 years ago

    We are soo going here! We were in Bangkok in March 2012 on our honeymoon, and we loved it! We can’t wait to return on our RTW in December 2013! We are street food lovers and advocates! Great tips!!!

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Hey Hannah, good to hear from you! Yes, when you come you should definitely check out this market, you’ll like it!

  • Sarah

    5 years ago

    Wow. You must be full and happy.