That’s exactly what he told us as we sat down next to the Mekong River, ready to eat a local Laos food feast in Luang Prabang:

“Without Trying Chili Fish Poop Dip, You Haven’t Been to Luang Prabang”

In this post I’m going to share with you the details of a restaurant that serves what was easily the best meal I had of local food in Luang Prabang.

Sitting next to the Mekong River
Ultimate Relaxation next to the Giant MeKong River.

Peaceful Views and Local Food in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is known for being one of the most relaxing places on the planet – well that’s what I think.

If I was in charge though, I’d say it should be even better known for how its so jam-packed with delicious things to eat.

Xieng Thong Phonsavanh, a local restaurant on the Mekong riverside on the peninsula of Luang Prabang serves a meal which will bring an eater to a state of taste-based-sensory overload. It’s one of those restaurants that would single-handedly make a trip to Laos worthwhile – just to eat at this restaurant.

Amazing Local Food in Luang Prabang
An Paradise of Food Hiding in Plain View

The Warm Up

The menu consists of a single laminated page, written in Laos, English, and Chinese. It contains only meat items aside from the delicious pressed-algae snack that is Kai Paen.

You should make sure to arrive just before 6pm. Watch the sun set over the river as you get ready to feast.

Best Beer Snack in Laos
Mekong Algae, an incredible crispy pre-meal warm-up

The Opener

It wasn’t five minutes before the first of our dishes arrived.

Kai Pen was first, one of the most crispy crunching snacks you’ll ever have. This dish is a local specialty, and you might see it sold as “Laos River Weed” in any of the evening market stalls.

The restaurant owner told us directly – “this dish goes with beer.” And we obliged.

Time in the sun evaporates any moisture from Kai Pen, and although they might look like nori seaweed for sushi rolls, these things are always deep fried. Just for a few seconds each though, as they are so paper thin, a mix of herbs included in the drying process helps give the fibrous strands body as well.

You might get a hint of galangal or tomatoes, but they all receive a heavy dose of roasted sesame seeds presenting a wonderful smoky flavor. They are best when piping hot, but watch your fingers in case the oil is still crackling!

Laos Pork Salad
This Laap Pa comes with large chunks of fish and entire handfuls of Laos herbs

Freshly caught Mekong River Fish

Laab Pa was next, one of the most important dishes to any evening meal in Laos, and one of the best of all Laos foods. This meat salad is spicy, sour, full of delicious bites of fish, and well-mixed with huge amounts of local Laos herbs.

The large amount of mint leaves combined with green onions, red onions, and hot red chilies always make this dish so refreshing, but also much lighter than just ordering a large piece of grilled fish.

Laos Local Herbs and Hot Chilies
Individually hand-wrapped clumps, be sure and try the Snakefish-Ear Vegetable.

The Laap goes so well with sticky rice, but also comes with a huge accompanying plate of yet more fresh herbs.

You take a little bundle of herbs, grab an entire fresh chili pepper, and in your other hand roll a small ball of warm sticky rice.

Dip the sticky rice into the fish salad, soak up as much of the Mekong fish as you can, and then follow it with the herb/chili chaser combo.

Hot and Sour Laos Fish Soup
A huge bowl full of fresh Mekong river fish.

Chunks of Fatty Fish Belly

Next up was a huge bowl full of chunks of fish caught right from the river. This boiled fish soup is simply called Gaeng Pla, but it can include several variations to the basic fish soup recipe – up to whatever fresh catch the chef is working with that day.

It was sour, the broth so incredibly hearty, and the chunks of fish huge and meaty.

It was so good that it could have easily been the highlight of the meal were it not for the dish that followed…

One of the best dishes I have ever had
Heavenly richness paired with a hellishly delightful chili oil burn

Chili fish poop dip

Jaew Kee Pa.

This dish was a game-changer. Our order was already a meat-lovers selection approaching maximum flavor perfection – but this last item just made our night a royal flush.

I found myself dreaming about this dish just 24 hours later. I couldn’t help myself – its the kind of thing that you write home about, blog about, send out a memo to every food lover and quote the chef himself – “Until you’ve had this dish, you haven’t arrived in Luang Prabang.”

The name you see on the menu is “Fish Penny Sauce,” but a direct translation of this would be Fish Poop Sauce.

Don’t worry – there isn’t really any poop in it.  At least I don’t think so.

What it is though, is a blend of fish eggs, sesame seeds, possibly some sesame oil, and lots and lots of dried chilies and chili oil. This mash of richness easily deserves to be the example found in the dictionary of flavors when your mouth looks up ‘umami.’

I couldn’t help but order an extra woven Kratip full of steaming sticky rice just to go with this plate.

Hunting down local food in Luang Prabang, this dish would be foremost on my hit-list. It was in a daze that we left, and I would happily visit Luang Prabang again just for another order of Jaew Kee Pa.

Nothing but meat on the menu
It isn’t a contest, but every item on the menu is a winner.

And All is Good in the World

When we were nearly finished, the chef returned to our table, just in time to see each one of us slowly slump into a glorious food prompted slumber.

Finishing this meal was truly like coming out of a dream.
The owner is so quiet and calm that at first he may even seem unfriendly – but that’s only until you see how he completely devotes his passion. When you start talking with him, he’s so incredibly friendly.

It is always great to receive recommendations directly from the owner himself, and in his own words – “You haven’t truly arrived [in Luang Prabang] until you’ve had this dish.”

Prices:

Fish Soup (Kaeng Pa) – 40,000 LAK
Fish Meat Salad (Koy Pa) – 40,000 LAK
Fried Chicken (Jim Kai) – 50,000 LAK
Chili Fish Poop Dip (Jaew Kee Pa) – 20,000 LAK
Pressed Algae (Kai Pen) – 15,000 LAK

How to Get There

To go:  Walk past Saffron Coffee, look for the blue fish sign.  The restaurant is Xieng Tong Suwannawong, just past the Mekong Riverview Hotel.  The Xieng Tong park next door is a great place to walk around and digest while dreaming about your most recent food success.

I hope you’re hungry to visit Laos after reading about the fish feast at XiengThong Restaurant in Luang Prabang. Check out another incredible dish we tried from Pa Kham Tan Laap Restaurant in Vientiane.

Also check out my Luang Prabang and Vientiane travel guide.

27 comments. I'd love to hear from you!

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  • Oliver Boyers

    3 weeks ago

    Sounds dodgy but I would definitely try it!

    • Joel Bruner

      2 weeks ago

      Hey Oliver, good on you! Thanks for the message, take care!

  • Keiran Potter

    2 months ago

    The chilli poop looks a little bit odd for me, if I am completely honest. However after reading I am terribly intrigued to try it.

  • Phil Doolittle

    6 months ago

    Just had lunch at Xieng Thong Phonsavanh, which we picked based on this post. When I ordered the Jaew Kee Pa and sticky rice, the man smiled and said ‘good choice’. Then he said something I didn’t quite understand, but eventually I figured out he was saying ‘Mark Wiens’. So you’ve obviously had an impact on getting some travelers to his business. And I definitely enjoyed the chili fish poop dip.

    • Joel Bruner

      2 weeks ago

      Phil!! You made me so happy just now, thats an awesome story 🙂 We are nothing but lucky to be part of any of (those travelers’ meals (and yours included)), thank you for telling me! That place is amazing, and the owner so incredibly cool as well. Love it!

  • Sabrina

    1 year ago

    Awesome that the Chef gave you personal recommendations and super relieved that there was no poo in the chili fish dish. I’ve never tried Laotian cuisine, but now I want to. Come to think of it, I’ve never seen a Laotian restaurant in the States, or Europe (only Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese).

    • Joel Bruner

      9 months ago

      Sabrina, Hello! Thank you for reading – yes maybe we were relieved theres no poo in that dish either, but wow its so delicious, it may be one of those foods that you dont actually care whats in it after youve already started to enjoy it! Good luck with finding a Lao restaurant in the USA (from my own experience, I actually knew several Lao families who were running Thai restaurants – the food is just so much more well known, it was easier for them to market themselves that way… but of course they would love to make their own food for you! Try asking where their families are from… and good luck 🙂 )

  • Rumah Sakit

    1 year ago

    Aww mannnn, I’m thousands of miles away, yet, I’m still craving for that 😛

    I would definitely visit this Luang Prabang if I’m in Thailand anytime soon 🙂
    Love the photos in your blog, hope to be back. 🙂

    • Joel Bruner

      1 year ago

      Thanks very much for reading Rumah! Yes, you should visit if you have a chance, that town is just wonderful.

  • Jorge Bastos

    1 year ago

    Crap!! I didn’t try this!! where were you when I was searching for food to try in Laos? Seriously, That dip sounds amazing…

    • Joel Bruner

      1 year ago

      Hi Jorge! That wonderful gentleman serving this dish will most likely be there when you return 🙂 He seemed very happy and very ready to continue working his magic with Laos’ great cuisine options… Best of luck!

  • Saloni

    1 year ago

    This looks interesting. I never heard about it. I had Poo Coffee in Bali.

    • Joel Bruner

      1 year ago

      Hi Saloni! Well, I don’t think (maybe?) this is actually fish poop, but the weasel/civet coffee really is! And its great too right?

  • James Ian

    1 year ago

    I did not try this when I was in Luang Probang. but I am thinking that now I may have to go back!

  • Whitney

    1 year ago

    Another great post on the food in Laos, and I’m glad to hear there really isn’t fish poop in the dip!

    • Joel Bruner

      1 year ago

      Thanks Whitney, yes it was just the name… I think 🙂

  • Lauren

    1 year ago

    You had me guessing through the entire review, “Is there really fish poop in it?” What an amazing experience! Great inspiration, and now I’m dying to go to Luang Prabang.

    • Joel Bruner

      1 year ago

      Lauren, thanks for reading! I hope you get a chance to visit that wonderful town and its people and of course, the magical food 🙂

  • john

    1 year ago

    Hi Mark, Your blog makes me hungry I’m so excited to eat thank you for sharing

    • Joel Bruner

      1 year ago

      You’re very welcome John. Don’t get too hungry though! Get out there and find some stuff worth making memories of for yourself as well 🙂 . See you for the next article!

  • Lin

    1 year ago

    Excellent review, made me want to try everything! Thanks for taking us there and reviewing so well. Love your reviews and videos – big hellos to family 🤗

  • Delahaye

    1 year ago

    Hi Mark, I watched the video and was intrigued, I’m visiting soon and this is on my list for food to try because of the video and now article!

  • Anthony Blignaut

    1 year ago

    Hi Mark, I recall watching the video.BUT reading this excellent article,once more got so hungry.Your descriptions are super. More Please!

  • Juan Ovalle

    1 year ago

    Fish Poop Chili Sauce? I’m incredibly curious!

  • Stephanie Langlet

    1 year ago

    Hi Mark,
    Have you ever considered to visit the Basque country, both situated in the South-West of France and Northern Spain? The Basque tapas have just been elected by Lonely Planet as the best food in the world and we have plenty of amazing specialities, from fish to cheese and even chocolate with chili!

    • Joel Bruner

      1 year ago

      I haven’t had the chance yet Stephanie, but yes I am SO looking forward to the day when I get to visit the Basque country. I trust the food is just on another level of awesome!

      • Stephanie LANGLET

        1 year ago

        Last Sunday I was in Bayonne, at 16kms from home, for the chocolate festival. It’s the French capital of chocolate 🙂