I spent 4 days in Jakarta before proceeding onwards in my journey through Indonesia towards Yogyakarta to climb Mt. Merapi and check out the Borobudur temple complex.  Jakarta is a massive bustling metropolis that can be somewhat overwhelming.

If you don’t just want to spend time getting lost in Jakarta’s labyrinth (which is usually a great thing to do), and have a few days, here are some worthwhile things to do. 

View Of Jakarta

Monas: National Monument

One of the central and noticeable landmarks in Jakarta is the Monas National Monument, known in slang terms as “Sokareno’s last erection.”  Located in the center of Merkeda (freedom) Square and park, the 137 meter monument can be scaled by elevator for a very modest fee. The result is a pretty compulsive view of greater Jakarta and the smog that consists.  The view is interesting and helps to get a little orientation for the urban agglomerate. 

Jakarta Mona National Monument

National Museum

On an aimless stroll around town, inhaling copious amounts of putrid fumes, I stumbled into the National Museum.  Resulting from extreme afternoon heat exhaustion, I decided to make an entrance.  The overall museum is actullay impressive and I would recommend it.  Artifacts from the expanse of the diverse Indonesian archipelago can be found in the museum.  Don’t miss the items varying from Papua penis gourds to ancient jewelry and skulls. 

Jakarta National Museum

Old Colonial Quarter (Taman Fatahillah)

The old Dutch settlement in Jakarta is a colonial throwback and provides vivid and interesting contrasts.  European buildings are shadowed by homeless sleepers, Gothic punk youth,  guitar freestylers, and the ever annoying tune of the ice cream cart.  Tropical palms, intense heat, and filthy maintenance, drown the Euro looking streets and architecture.  The Cafe Batavia in old town is a worthwhile place to wander and the staff will be friendly even if you don’t purchase anything.  Enter with a full bladder as the bathrooms are beautifully mirrored and uniquely designed. 

Historic Colonial Town Jakarta

Historic Town Jakarta

Food for Thought

At night, side street stalls will literally claim a section of road and string yellow and red canvas around their area to blockade it. Don’t hesitate to dive into delicious ikan bakar (grilled fish with killer sauce), mystery buffets of nasi campur, and other cheffed necessities.  For more information on food selection have a look at 9 mandatory foods to eat in Indonesia. 

Nasi Padang Food in Jakarta

Impromptu Bands

Makeshift cover bands and guitarists with 4 stringed guitars will come to you like ocean waves rolling into shore.  Some people sing poorly on purpose so you have to give them something small for them to leave. It’s not a bad idea to have a few 1000 Rupiah notes to get some of the most repugnant musicans to depart.  Other inspiring musicians are actually quite talented and might even deserve an applause.  Whether the music is good or bad, it does make for an interesting dinner or night of entertainment.  

Masjid Istiqlal Mosque

Islam is widespread in Indonesia and shrieks from mosques can be heard throughout Jakarta.  If you show up at the entrance to the world’s third largest mosque, Masjid Istiqlal, someone will be obliged to show you around the premises.  It is free to look, though after a while someone will ask for a donation. 

Masjid Istiqlal Mosque in Jakarta

Accommodation

The main area for budget accommodation and convenience is located on Jalan Jaksa, in a decent city location.  I stayed on a side foot road right off Jalan Jaksa at the Bloem Steen guest house.  The front veranda garden, sufficient room conditions, and free breakfast with great coffee, make this guest house recommendable. 

Note: Bewareof the touts and jokers on Jalan Jaksa who attempt to sway your decisions.  If in doubt, just be friendly and move along. 

Conclusion

In a city of 20 million, with people spanning from close and far out islands, the diversity and expression of Jakarta is enough to look at and then be enticed.  Indonesians are almost always friendly, so don’t fear getting disoriented and finding some ultra random places to hang out! 

-Migration Mark

Migration Mark has been in South East Asia since March of 2009 and has grown to love a few serious things but mostly the extraordinarily quirky things.

1. Chili Peppers…Please!

I grew up eating food with spice and sometimes with chili.  Throughout SE Asia however, I have nurtured my ever craving lust for the succulent seeded heat of chili peppers.  I simply can’t taste food unless there is an abundance of hot chilies involved in the meal.  In my month in Indonesia, I was able to come up with 9 mandatory foods to eat in Indonesia and every single dish would not be the same without a massive dollop of sambal chili sauce.

2. No Toilet Paper for Me…

Before coming to SE Asia the thought of spraying after “making a release” really sounded quite dreadful.  Now, I really don’t feel clean if I have to use Toilet Paper.  I much prefer the spray and shake method.  As I like to say, “a powerful spray, goes a loooong way.”

3. Rice, Rice, and Rice

You don’t normally get Kenyan style nyama choma in Asia, but anything with rice is splendidly satisfying.  Though I am 1/2 Chinese and grew up eating rice on the daily, my habitual rice eating has been reinforced.  Just like the locals I hung out with in Batad of the Philippines rice terraces, If I don’t eat rice 2-3 times a day I’m just not fully satisfied in life.

4. King of Fruits…Bow Down

The notorious durian fruit, also known as the “king of fruits” smells pretty far from appetizing.  In Malaysia I was able to tackle the durian fruit in the form of buffet and now I actually crave it from time to time.  It’s actually and surprisingly  quite delicious!!!

5. Squatting Potting

My thighs have become absurdly strong, and it’s surely not from the gym, it’s from squatting at so many roadside  locations.  I’m not ashamed to admit that I find myself squatting on top of regular toilets from time to time without thinking about it…weird.

6. Scooter Butt

As a first timer on a horse may need to walk afterward with a wide stance, so sitting on the back of a scooter too long creates scooter butt (sitting on the back of a moped for a long period of time).  However, there is hope, my butt has now become accustomed to scooter butt.

7.  Massage?

In the United States I never dreamed of having a massage.  Here in SE Asia I have become used to either paying a humble 200 baht ($5), having a cute fish massage, or if I am sitting randomly on the roadside an old man might possibly come to lightly rub my shoulders.  If you’ve been in SE Asia for a while you can bet on this.  Warning though, at first it’s a little awkward.

8. Food Expenditure

If I have to dish out more than a dollar for a single meal or go to an established “sit down” restaurant, I immediately feel rather uncomfortable, strange, and just plain incompetent.  It seems my entire personality has evolved to really only relate to street food or hole in the wall eateries where I can spend less that a dollar.

9. Environmental Spectacles

The environmental beauty of SE Asia is incredible.  Hiking deadly volcanoes, climbing rice terraces from Mayoao to Batad, and pretending to be a millionaire on pristine beaches.  I haven’t even itched the surface of possibilities.

10. Heat Streak

If the temperature drops below 80 degrees Fahrenheit (26.6 Celsius) I start to get goosebumps and shivers.  It’s peculiar, but I’m starting to realize why people sell goose down parkas roadside.

11. Food-Tastic

I have said this time and time again and I could go on and on; the food in SE Asia is just unparalleled.  Where else can you expect and demand to eat Manchester United Burgers, Nasi Campur mystery buffets, Bangkok Boat Noodles, feast on fetus of Balut, and then get ultimately dirty in Seafood Dampa?

12. Natural Shirt Vent

In SE Asia numerous youth and men alike walk around with shirts cinched up just below the breast.  I too cannot resist walking around all day with my shirt pulled up halfway over my stomach to increase the airflow.  Note: I especially and would recommend doing this after heavy meals

13. Karaoke Singing

Most embarrassingly on the list, I find myself thinking even sometimes dreaming about karaoke and secretly hoping for more.

14.  Need to be Sweating

After attempting to jog in Manila, an orangutan trek in Sumatra, my try at conquering hot yoga, and then paired with avoiding the usage of an air conditioner, I have simply come to the conclusion that sweating is natural and feels right to me.

15.  Diving Off Roads

Driving in Indonesia taught me a lot about pedestrians walking on the side of any street.  With little more than a micro second notice, pedestrians are forced to casually dive off the sidewalk or side of the road into pools of water or muddy basins as motorcycles or overloaded trucks zoom past with an intimidating breeze.  After some time, a few near perishing occasions, and learning to open my eyes wider by paying attention, it is now easy and somewhat enjoyable for me to avoid oncoming or sometimes incoming traffic.

16.  Human Hordes

As with motorways, hordes of people will inevitably be “in your way” when walking anywhere.  Swag surfin, booty shaking, or simply patience, are invaluable when dealing with massive crowds.  Soon you become accustomed and enjoy the variety and mixture of random humanity.

17.  Opportunity to Help Others

From assisting in the charity projects of In Search of Sanuk, building houses with hope, being immersed in Payatas, and hanging out at the Bali house of life, there is not much better value than helping others with the secret recipe for 100% guaranteed happiness.  Spending time and hanging out with others will put a smile on everyone, inside and out.

I’ve learned quite a few things since taking up migrationology, some things can be a little awkward until you remember, Nothing Is Awkward in Southeast Asia, loosen up and enjoy.

Please suggest any other reasons of how you know you love Southeast Asia, or ask me any questions!

-Migration Mark

This is Part I of a 2 part series of a wondrous hike through the gorgeous 2000 year old paradise rice terraces of Mayoyao where one is not just a tourist but a family friend to the magnificent rising amphitheater of Batad, in the Ifugao province of the Philippines.

I sloppily released a mouthful of bright red beetle juice saliva onto the ground as I struggled to keep my balance on the mud bogged trail.

“In Ifugao, American country music is very popular,” said my guide Efren.  “At a cafe in Phoenix,” was emitted from his cell phone speaker by a random country singer.

I chuckled as I told Efren,

“Phoenix is where I am from,”

and we both laughed pretty hard.  Our location in the Philippines was somewhere between the town of Mayoyao and the village of Magulon where the conditions, atmosphere, and culture was close to opposite of that in Phoenix, Arizona.

“How many turns do we have to make to get to the next village?” Efren asked me.

“I have no idea,” I replied as we continued to walk on what was becoming a rather monotonous trail with turns and bends around mountains, landslides, and streams.

“Only two turns,” he said, “left and right.” We laughed again enjoying ourselves amidst our sweat drenched bodies.

The day before, a guide had asked me if I wanted to hike through some remote villages surrounded by rice terraces and then cross a mountain saddle where virtually no tourists or even locals venture.  The idea intrigued me and it was now 8 am, we had been hiking for a couple hours en route to Magulon.

On the trail, I passed a few old ladies with heavy loads slowly carrying their produce to Mayoyao and I saw men in the most gnarly positions pinpointing where it was that there was a block of water flow in the irrigation system, hindering the rice terraces.  Along the hike, I saw locals living life, doing things they needed to do to survive and provide for themselves and their families.

Around mid day we reached the village of Magulon, briefly mingling with excited local children and visiting the village school along the way.  I took a rest at the home of Benni (who would be my new guide).  I welcomed into my belly some local grown rice mixed with green beans from the garden, as some much needed calories.

About an hour break and with two chickens I involuntarily purchased in Magulon (for the glorious thought of eating), we set off towards the next village of Patyay.

Part II soon to come!

-Migration Mark

Related

• 116 Terraces of Rice: 2000 Years Old
• Not Just a Tourist But a Family Friend: Mayoyao Rice Terraces

I landed in the semi chaotic and slightly overwhelming, sprawling capital city of Sumatra, Medan. The streets were loaded with hungry motorists, racing for an edge over their competition. Hawkers hustled for the next Rupiah, eating portions of rice along the way, yelling their product for the street to hear. On my first night I met nearly 20 locals who were all extremely friendly, talkative, and loved to help in any sort of way. It was from this moment that I discovered the warmth and hospitality of Indonesians that was to come.

The next day my body was rattling around like dice in a cup in a mini bus to the village of Bukit Lawang, in search of the Orangutan rehabilitation forest. I signed up for a 2 day trek through the jungle, which included sliding through jungle thickets, up and down mud logged hills, and scrambling over the roots of giant trees and vines. It didn’t take more than an hour to spot our first orangutan, basking in the morning sunshine in her nest with her offspring. A few minutes later, the tables turned and the mother and child were hastily swinging from tree to tree, avoiding an aggressive male on the prowl. Orangutans swinging on the vines or as the guides called them “jungle taxis,” was a rushing sight.

Moving on I visited Danau Lake Toba, one of the largest and deepest volcanic lakes in the world. The town of Tuktuk on the shores of the Samosir Peninsula on Lake Toba was a quiet, ultra relaxing village, sure to inspire even the most amateur poet. Calm warm waters, sharply cutting into green volcano edges, slowly paddling fishermen, and flickering sunsets, all added to the scenic atmosphere. I could have spent a month here, pondering ideas, and writing my thoughts.

Nine days in Sumatra and it was time to move on to the next island, Java. Though in that time I barely scratched the surface of endless possibilities on Sumatra let alone the Indonesian archipelago, I dove from the appetizer to the main dish with some incredible experiences. I would love to encourage you to travel to Indonesia as well as other countries around the globe. Sumatra is an incredible island with amazing activities, adventures, flavorful food, and friendly people.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLW2fY-8o6s

“Try leaving cheese and a dead body out in the sun and you’re in the same neighborhood as the smell of durian.” — Tony Bourdain

Durian is easily one of the stinkiest and weirdest natural foods the wonderful world has to offer.  The fruit comes wrapped in a thorny hard shell, protecting the mushy pudding like segments of each pungent piece of fruit.

When traveling in Southeast Asia, there is absolutely no excuse to not partake of this semi-bizarre fruit.  Some find it rather enjoyable, however others find the texture, smell, and taste close to unbearable.  It must be tried to formulate a legit opinion (merely smelling does not count).

My bottom line advice is whatever you do, don’t smell it, and you should be fine.  I have grown to personally be quite fond of the fruit, mostly due to to the repulsive burps and acid reflux that follows an eating session.

I drank a Pepsi after eating durian and the carbonation pressurized my stomach, forcing me to release gnarly rotting onions, fermented avocado, and dead carcass burps every few minutes.  Great stuff!!! Next time you go on a date, you know what to eat a couple hours in advance.

The flavors of Durian are used in other items such as candies, ice cream, chips, pastes, and powders.

So eat at your own risk, but do eat it.

-Migration Mark

It took a number of days for me to become familiar with the currency of rupiahs in Indonesia. After a bit of confusion, a few days of practice, and getting slightly ripped off a couple times, I was able to become accustomed to the currency and after a couple weeks it was simply natural.

When I first arrived in Sumatra, Indonesia the first thing I needed to do was buy a large bottle of water. The innocent girl selling me the bottle asked for 4000 rupiahs, “4000 rupiahs, are you joking, what?” I said. I quickly realized I was in the bad, and that the bottle of water only really cost a little less than 40 US cents.

This is for those who travel to Indonesia to familiarize with the money prior to landing.

If you think in US dollars, simply move the decimal over 4 positions. 100,000.000 rupiahs is simply about equal to $10. Likewise, 5000 Rupiahs is about equal to .50 cents, etc. The conversion itself is not difficult, however with all the zeros, many tend to become bewildered and left confused.

A common mistake newcomers make is getting the 100,000 and 10,000 rupiah notes mixed up. Both notes have a lot of zeros, but one is worth 10 times more. Review Indonesia’s rupiah currency prior to arriving and try to save the hassle of getting ripped off.

It becomes very easy once you get a little practice and then you travel somewhere else!

-Mark Wiens

Though this might sound like I’m joking even sarcastic half the time, its actually quite realistic.  Don’t take my suggestions as fact but rather use them as guidelines, something to think about when you rent a vehicle.  Don’t let this stress you out, when you get on the road, you will understand and formulate your own ideas.  Renting a car in Indonesia was quite an enjoyable event for myself and can be for you as well.  However, don’t pretend it is going to be relaxing.

You will be presented with various obstacles on the road.  Things such as a motorcycle with a desk wide ways on the back, a bicycle carrying 10 meter bamboo poles (no red flags), someone pushing a noodle cart and stopping without warning, a dog napping in the middle of the street, a family of 5 on a scooter putt putting along.  Not to be alarmed, this makes driving very interesting.

Our Rented Suzuki Karimun

These suggestions are not Indonesia exclusive, but quite universal for many developing nations.  The number 1 rule is don’t hit anything. If you can do this (by any means), great!, here are some suggestions for attempting it.

1. Drive Fast

Drive fast to keep up with the other traffic who are also maxing out their engines.  If you drive too slow, the road will be a more hazardous place for you and other motorists.

2. Make Slow Lane Switches

When you want to switch lanes (though there are no lines) slowly scoot over despite what is in your mirror.  What is in the way at the time (motorcycles, pedestrians, dogs, animals, or other cars) will adapt to your vehicle, as long as you are swerving slowly.

3. Don’t Be The First To Stop at a Traffic Light

Often you will have no idea when the light turns green and when to go.  There is no real problem if you are the first to stop, just keep your ears open for the honks.

4. Tailgate

Especially driving through intersections if the light turns orange, tailgate the vehicle in front of you so you make the light, even if it happens to turn red long before you enter the intersection.

5. Overtake

Despite oncoming traffic by way of motorcycles and pedestrians, venture into the oncoming lane without much hesitation.  The bikes and people will move out of the way, often to the very edges of the road.  Its “okay” or shall I say “accepted” to run people off the road.  You will be run off the road a few times as well.

6. Honk

Make sure you toot your horn frequently, but never laying on the horn, only small taps, to let your competitors know you are present.

7. Don’t Panic

If you get on the road and are stressed out by the constant stream of motorcycles swerving in front of you from the left, right (sometimes unknown), just cruise along, acknowledging they know you are there, just don’t make sudden swerves.

Motorcycles will come and go...rapidly

Everyone  whether they are riding in cars, trucks, scooters, motorcycles, makeshift trucks, customized motorcycles, food cart motorcycles, rickshaws, bicycles, or wheeled accessories, seem to be floating along despite the noise in a continuous flow of harmony.  Many may prefer a backseat position, but driving can open new options and is great for avoiding “scooter butt.”  As for driving a scooter or motorcycle, there are a whole new set of guidelines.

The bottom line is to do whatever you can to be as safe as possible while avoiding collision with anything or anyone.

I know I didn’t cover it all, please let me know of your suggestions or comments!

-Mark Wiens

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This is the pictorial version of the “9 Mandatory Foods to Eat in Indonesia (click this for all the food descriptions).”  All dishes must be eaten with large amounts of sambal (ground chili sauce) to maximize flavors.

1. Hot Plate

Spicy Seafood Hot Plate

2. Nasi Campur

Rice and Curry Buffet

3. Gado Gado

Vegetable and Rice Cake in Peanut Sauce

4. Lotek

Mixed Salad

5. Indonesian Sate

Goat Sate with Peanut Sauce

6. Ikan Bakar

Grilled Fish Meal

7. Soto Ayam

Breakfast Chicken Soup

8. Babi Guling

Roasted Suckling Pig

9. Cap cay

Fried Vegetables and Egg

This is the “9 Mandatory Foods to Eat in Indonesia,” description of the foods.  Check out the “9 Mandatory Foods to Eat in Indonesia in Pictures,” here.

The normal tourist eats and always orders “nasi goreng,” fried rice with an egg on top.  This dish is good, reliable, and will never fail you, however, there is a lot more in Indonesia.

To save myself the trouble of mentioning sambal (ground chili pepper sauce) with all dishes on this list, I will start out saying that, all these dishes can and must be ordered with sambal in excess for optimal flavors (I guess its my opinion).  Check out this recipe for sambal.

1. Hot Plate

I was able to eat hot plate in Yogyakarta with local friends (so I know it was top quality) where I ordered the spicy seafood combination.  5 minutes later a cast iron plate of steaming, piping hot seafood arrived in front of me.  The flavors were tangy, spicy, and dangerously delicious.

2. Nasi Campur

I will include all sorts of Nasi Campur under this heading (you can click here to see my account of Nasi Campur: A Mystery Buffet), including Nasi Padang, and Balinese style Nasi Campur.  A plate of rice and a random assortment of many tasty things including chicken, fish curry, fried eggs, tofu, soybeans, coconut vegetables and so on.

3. Gado Gado

Salad mix that often includes chopped cabbage, watercress, bean sprouts, sliced cucumbers, fried tofu, sliced and boiled potatoes, and boiled eggs.  On the bottom is usually some lontong, or smushed rice cake, made in a banana leaf wrapper.  This salad mixture is then covered in a thick, sweet, and tangy peanut sauce, and then topped with fried shrimp crackers.

4. Lotek

Lotek includes many of the same ingredients as gado gado, such as bean sprouts, watercress, cabbage, rice cake, and tofu.  It can also include other vegetables.  The main difference is the sauce that coats Lotek is a spicy and sweet soy sauce.  One of my personal favorite dishes in Indonesia.

5. Indonesian Sate

Glorious skewers of meat or chicken grilled, coated and drenched in an amazing spicy, peanut and soy sauce.

6. Ikan Bakar

Also known as grilled fish.  The whole fish is butterfly cut, then thrown on the grill with a sweet and salty soy sauce.  It is often served with some sort of sauce, chili, a few herbs, cucumber slices, and of course white rice, completing an excellent meal.

7. Soto Ayam

A breakfast soup of rice noodles and rice, boiled in a chicken broth with various herbs, small amounts of vegetables, and a little amount of chicken.

8. Babi Guling

Babi guling, also known as suckling pig, is a Balinese speciality.  Babi guling is a wonderful addition to the Indonesian palette.  Fatty roasted skin, tender pork, accompanied by other pig parts, small amounts of vegetables, and rice.

9. Cap Cay

A welcome relief to the many grease filled dishes is the vegetable dominated dish of cap cay (pronounced chap chay).  Basically it is a boiled stir fry of various vegetables mostly cabbage, carrots, green beans, chili peppers, and anything else, with small bits of chicken or egg, and served with white rice.

Be sure not to miss any of these dishes when you travel to Indonesia.  Its good to know that in New York City, I can get some of these authentic Indonesian plates.

-Mark Wiens

Borobudur is an ancient Buddhist temple in central Java, Indonesia.  It is a masterpiece of architecture with various levels, statues, stupas, and stone reliefs.  The temple complex comprises of three round platforms on top of six square platforms.  A Buddhist follower is to walk around each level of the temple following the 1460 narrative relief panels as a symbolic path to enlightenment.

According to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO), Borobudur comprises of three prestigious qualities, making it a World Heritage Site.

• Borobudur is a masterpiece of human genius
• It Displays an interchange of human values from the culture, shows signs of development in technology and architecture in its time, and presents an advancement in planning and design.
• It has universal significance shown by traditions, ideas, festivities, and artistic ideas.

History

• Built around the year 800AD
• Recently discovered in 1812 by Sir Thomas Stamford
• 1907-1911 Theodore van Erp continued cleanup and restoration
• 1973-1983 UNESCO began work with Indonesia for continued restoration

Borobudur Temple Complex is now the most visited of tourist sites in Indonesia.  It is located about 42km from Yogyakarta and takes around 45 minutes to get there.

From Yogyakarta there are numerous tour companies offering various package deals, sometimes they also include the Hindu Temple Complex of Prambanan also near to Yogyakarta.

Local transportation by bus or motorcycle can also easily be arranged.

Though the heat was exceptionally strong due to the black rock radiating warmth, I thoroughly enjoyed walking around Borobudur, observing the ancient Buddhist reliefs, and admiring the artistic talents.  Although it has been renovated, and some blocks have been replaced and plastered, the ancient site still remains an incredible place to visit in Indonesia.

-Mark Wiens

Related

• Prambanan Hindu Temple Complex
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