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Addicted to Durian – I Found the Cure in Zanzibar!

If you didn’t already know, I happen to be a raging addict of the “king of fruits,” and I don’t ever plan on going to rehab.

To be honest, I hadn’t even thought about it for a couple of weeks. I was traveling around Egypt and East Africa, it had been weeks since leaving SE Asia, and my mind had been thinking in terms of other delicacies like pilau and biryani.

I arrived to the island of Zanzibar, eager to begin a short holiday. After checking out a number of guest houses we decided to check into the Karibu Inn (a lovely guest house in Stone Town). After greeting the receptionist, my eyes were directed to a calendar behind the reception counter. The calendar was completely ordinary, except that it was a freebie from the Zanzibar Export Authority and YES, there were pictures. There it was, in the top right corner of the calendar, a halo of glory resting on a golden pillow…a Durian.

I was overjoyed and couldn’t contain myself. I started questioning the receptionist like I was with the CIA, where can I find that? What is the price? Are they easy to find?

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Durian in Zanzibar

Our receptionist, Mohammad, was ecstatic that I showed such interest in such a delicacy. “Yes, there are durian’s here in Zanzibar…at the market.” Mohammed offered to bring me a couple durian’s from the market the next morning to which I gladly accepted. I could already feel that Durian bond between us, a bond I believe is one of the strongest.  In the morning I feasted on 2 durian’s. I hadn’t been so satisfied since the legendary durian buffet in Kuala Lumpur (which by the way is worth an annual migration).

For the rest of my time in Zanzibar, I was wearing my Durian Goggles – keeping an acute lookout.

The next day we were, en-route to the East Coast of Zanzibar when I noticed a pile of spiky fruit sitting on a table at a village on the edge of the forest. I screamed for the van to pull over and proceeded to chat with the men hanging out around the table of glory. They chuckled as I started speaking to them in Swahili and they could tell, I was interested in one thing only: their fruit.

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Slicing Durian in Zanzibar

I picked a durian and the vendor sliced it up; I began to feed myself.  It was splendid, the flavor was exquisite. It’s a fruit that can’t be forgotten, a fruit that could foster migrations, and a fruit that I wouldn’t hesitate to spend the rest of my bank account on.

The men were entertained and laughed aloud as I licked every durian seed clean until the entire fruit had diminished before me.

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The Zanzibari durian’s have similar flavor to the South East Asian durian, but they are not nearly as meaty, hearty, or large. Just like any other durian in this world, Zanzibari durian’s are worth going out of your way and reversing your itinerary for.

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I’m quite certain that throughout the history of Zanzibar there has never been a parallel ”white man,” so enthusiastic about eating durian on the island.

That evening I enjoyed another durian outside the Karibu Inn, sharing this time with a bank guard. We sat there eating, he had a chunk of durian in one hand, a sawed off shotgun in the other, and we both had smiles upon our faces.

- Migration Mark


YOU might also LIKE:

  1. Jaws Corner – Coffee and Conversation the Zanzibar Way
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  3. 21 Mesmerizing Photos of Stone Town, Zanzibar (in Black and White)
  4. Migration Mark Tackles the Durian Fruit

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25 Responses to “Addicted to Durian – I Found the Cure in Zanzibar!”

  1. Tijmen March 7, 2011 at 6:54 pm #

    I have to say I have never seen or heard about Durian before, but after reading your article i’m vary curious to find out what they taste like. I dont think they sell them over here (Holland).
    Tijmen recently posted..A Guide to Eating in West AfricaMy Profile

  2. Joel Bruner March 7, 2011 at 7:57 pm #

    Dude. amazing. they have discovered the cure for sure
    Cure for most ailments haha, comes in the green and spiky package. Yesterdays todays and tomorrows ambrosia at the same time…:)
    Joel Bruner recently posted..Pad Pla Keun Chai- Stir Fried Fish with Chinese CeleryMy Profile

  3. Christy @ Technosyncratic March 7, 2011 at 11:39 pm #

    Yeah, I’d love to know what they taste like as well! The one cracked open kind of looks like coconut meat, but the outside looks like a prickly pineapple. :P
    Christy @ Technosyncratic recently posted..Creole Cuisine in New OrleansMy Profile

  4. Mark Wiens March 8, 2011 at 12:46 am #

    @Tijmen: Yah, Durian might be hard to find in Holland, it’s usually a SE Asian delicacy. Hope you get a chance to taste it, it’s much much different from all other fruit, but I find it extremely delicious!

    @Joel: Kuala Lumpur for the annual Durian buffet pilgrimage!

    @Christy: A bit hard to describe, it has a flavor unlike any other fruit I know of. I think a lot of people don’t like durian for the texture, but it feels just like a soft creamy pudding!

  5. Jeruen March 8, 2011 at 1:44 am #

    Oh, I never knew that durian can be found outside of Asia. For Filipinos, it’s usually just found in the south of the country, near Davao, and yes, it stinks.
    Jeruen recently posted..Google Wants Me to Cook SpamMy Profile

  6. Kat March 8, 2011 at 1:51 pm #

    A couple of weeks ago, I went to the office pantry and was hit with a smell so intense and distinct, it could only be one thing: durian. It’s pretty interesting that you fell in love with this fruit. I haven’t tried it even though my uncles used to bring one all the time from Davao. :) The candy is the closest I’ve ever had to eating it.
    Kat recently posted..Brasilipinas 2011- Rio De ManilaMy Profile

  7. Cathy Sweeney March 9, 2011 at 11:26 am #

    Wow — I guess I have to put eating durian on my bucket list. Those spikes look dangerous.

  8. Turkey's For Life March 10, 2011 at 5:52 pm #

    I’ve never even seen or heard of a durian before – I bet most of your comments are going to say that. What does it taste like? I’ve got to say it doesn’t look too appetising but I guess it tastes better than it looks.
    Julia
    Turkey’s For Life recently posted..Back To Fethiye – Home Sweet HomeMy Profile

  9. Juno March 12, 2011 at 8:52 am #

    I remember that!! :) Durian is.. actually taste quite normal than the smell, right? The outfit of the fruit is really intimidating though.. :)

  10. Rebecca March 14, 2011 at 1:48 pm #

    Ew, ew, ew!! Stinky feet!;-)
    Rebecca recently posted..Photo of the Week- Santa Monica Beach- Los AngelesMy Profile

  11. jill- Jack and Jill Travel The World March 16, 2011 at 7:54 am #

    Love durians!!! In Indonesia we have the local version — bigger, but not too sweet. But my family’s favorite are the ones from Thailand — much smaller, yellower in color, and intense flavor. Ooh, it makes me crave some durian ice cream right now.
    jill- Jack and Jill Travel The World recently posted..Backpacking Denali – 7 Memorable Mistakes We MadeMy Profile

  12. Mark Wiens March 16, 2011 at 9:57 am #

    @Jeruen: Yah, same here, that’s why I was so ecstatic about finding Durian in Zanzibar!!!

    @Kat: Oh Kat, you need to sample some next time you Uncle brings it! I’m sure you will love it!

    @Cathy: Great!

    @Julia: It’s a most peculiar smell (I do like the smell too), and a creamy pudding like texture. The flavor is sweet and just so unique it can’t really be compared with anything! Let me know when you come to SE Asia and we will do some sampling!

    @Juno: Hehe, yes, the outer shell is so cool and spiky!

    @Rebecca: Hehe, I’ve now grown to love the smell!

    @Jill: Yessss! I agree, thinking that Thailand has some of the best durians. It’s getting close to durian season (and I’m back in Thailand now!)! The ice cream is great too!

  13. Bama March 19, 2011 at 11:25 am #

    Hi Mark! This is the first time I read a story of a westerner who likes to eat durian. Fascinating! In Indonesia almost everyone loves it.
    Bama recently posted..The Great Heritage of An Ancient Javanese KingdomMy Profile

  14. Mark Wiens March 19, 2011 at 6:32 pm #

    @Bama: Yes, I am a huge lover of Durian! I would love to return to Indonesia when it’s durian season!

  15. Grace March 20, 2011 at 9:53 pm #

    Durian Goggles!? LOL You sir, are one of a kind! I rarely find anyone outside of SE Asia who likes durian. I know you’ve been to the Philippines and we do love our durian there.

    I really like it when travelers go out of their way to sample local delicacy it just shows a lot of openness and enthusiasm to try something new.

  16. Mark Wiens March 21, 2011 at 8:13 am #

    @Grace: Thanks Grace! It was so much fun eating in the Philippines, everyone was so enthusiastic for me to try the local food, and when I loved everything, everyone was so excited. It was really great! Still love the Bicol Express the most!

  17. Bluegreen Kirk March 21, 2011 at 10:17 pm #

    What would you compare them to? I have never had a Durian before but it looks interested. Are those spikes sharp are do they just look like there are? I always open to trying new fruits. Thanks for the post.
    Bluegreen Kirk recently posted..Protecting Your Lawn as the Weather Heats UpMy Profile

  18. Mya March 30, 2011 at 11:14 am #

    Hi Im Malaysian i love to eat durian but sometimes the smell always spoils my mood to eat. LOL but people out there you guys should try Durian D24 or Durian Kampung (Village) its super delicious. ;D

    • Mark Wiens March 30, 2011 at 10:59 pm #

      Yes!!! Malaysian durian is amazing, it’s actually where I had my first taste of the fruit! I live in Thailand right now, and I actually just bought a durian, a few hours ago! Thanks for the comment Mya!

  19. Shirlene from Idelish August 8, 2011 at 5:20 pm #

    Amazing! I didn’t even know they had durians in Zanzibar! I too am a “raging addict” of the King of Fruits (I grew up in Malaysia)! Can’t wait to try out the durians at Zanzibar one day!

    • Mark Wiens August 8, 2011 at 10:55 pm #

      Haha, awesome Shirlene! I hope you get to taste the durian in Zanzibar, it’s not as good as in Malaysia, but I’m sure you would agree that that familiar flavor of durian is good in any shape, form, or size!

  20. darrick March 12, 2012 at 3:18 pm #

    hi there!! this is amazing report…i appreciate you taking time to do this…..i ve been in asia 5 years and mostly <philippines eating durian DAily….2 or 3 fruits….
    im in kenya now…and due to your report heading to karibu inn in stone town…..how long is the season there??? march and april???
    please email me at durianbliss@gmail.com
    thanks!
    Darrick

    • Mark Wiens March 13, 2012 at 4:05 pm #

      Hey Darrick, glad to hear you are also a lover of durian. Nothing is as good as durian! I’m not sure exactly when the durian season is, but hopefully during march and april they should be available. Head to the local Zanzibari markets and ask, and someone will point you in the right direction. Good luck and hope you’re able to enjoy some durian in Zanzibar!

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