Midnight Market Madness

I’ve been to my share of local markets throughout Asia, in fact, it’s one of my all time favorite activities.  Nothing to buy, only to look and relax in the midst of everyone else taking care of necessary business and scurrying through their daily lives.  At Kota Kinabalu’s night market I watched the sun peacefully set over a still bay with vendors advertising their vegetables with verses of rap.

Markets are a source of life, people around the world shop at markets for essential ingredients to sustain living.  I enjoy the energy and buzz, the raunchy smells and mix of clientele that only fresh food markets can generate.

Hanoi, a city of around 6.5 million residents, is fueled by hungry eaters who yearn for the finest and freshest vegetables and fruits Vietnam has to offer.

Like everything else in Hanoi, things are chaotic and busy, the Long Bien Market on the other hand is on steroids.  The Long Bien wholesale market is the distribution point for probably most of Hanoi’s produce.  Commercial shoppers to double basket hawkers shop for steals of deals in bulk quantities.

night long bien Midnight Market Madness

The market located at the Northern side of Hanoi’s Old Quarter takes the graveyard shift getting fully underway by about 1 am and by 6 am things are settling down and winding to a finish.

moto long bien Midnight Market Madness

I arrived at 4 am, eager to absorb Hanoi in it’s most throbbing state.  I was greeted my mountains of fruit, containers of vegetables, and piles of herbs and spices.  There was a continual flow of shouting, motorcycle zooming, honking, and always some sort of commotion within a few strides.

long bien spices Midnight Market Madness

Men loaded their motorcycles to the max, while women thrust on their double basket Vietnamese carriers and darted through the clogged veins of the market.  The only way to move is to be extremely aggressive and squeeze through narrow passageways to blend into the traffic.  I pushed through, avoided being squished to death by mere inches.  As soon as I would find a square foot to stop and take a photo, a cart pusher would be in my face, telling me to move.

long bien load Midnight Market Madness

long bien market Midnight Market Madness

The excitement continued to the main entrance, where I witnessed a messy traffic jam that lasted for 5 minutes because not a single person would budge to let anyone go through.

long bien jam Midnight Market Madness

The sun started to rise and people were actually running in and out of the main entrance now, avoiding collision with city buses that had already begun their routes.  I perched myself on the side of a wall along with a homeless man sleeping, in order to find space and freedom to maneuver.  From the wall I could enjoy the disorder and confusion of the entire market.

sleeping market Midnight Market Madness

The composure of the Long Bien Market was among the craziest and most entertaining that I’ve ever witnessed.  Walking back into the narrow slot canyon streets of the Old Quarter that I thought were extremely congested, now seemed a little more open, and I breathed a sigh of relief.

long bien dawn Midnight Market Madness

If you travel to Hanoi, be sure to wake up early one morning and visit, just don’t focus on 1 thing to too long (you might get squished!).

Long Bien Wholesale Market

Location: Close to the Red River edge at the Long Bien Bridge and Yên Phụ Road.  About 500 meters from Dong Xuan clothing market.  You can easily walk to Long Bien Market from Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

- Migration Mark


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13 Responses to “Midnight Market Madness”

  1. Juno October 11, 2010 at 9:44 am #

    Wow, look at that. Nice photography Mark! I love markets as well. Can pick up most of ‘normal’ and ‘usual’. So active! :)
    Juno recently posted..Big circle of Angkor KingdomMy Profile

  2. ciki October 11, 2010 at 9:46 am #

    what is it about night markets that really get under my skin? it’s the vibe.. it’s where the real people hangout:) i live for this “madness”! A great post with fantastic shots too boot.. love this post!
    ciki recently posted..Return to Elegant InnMy Profile

  3. Ali October 12, 2010 at 9:57 am #

    That looks so interesting! I’ve been thinking about southeast Asia a lot lately & I’d love to get to Vietnam soon. I’ll definitely try to make it to this market!
    Ali recently posted..Pichincha Volcano in QuitoMy Profile

  4. Mary R October 13, 2010 at 1:44 pm #

    Like always, your photos capture the mood of the night markets exactly! I especially like the shots of the motorbikes of “burden”
    Mary R recently posted..World’s Largest Tug of WarMy Profile

  5. Corinne @ Gourmantic October 18, 2010 at 6:10 pm #

    I love how you’ve captured the movement in these shots!
    Corinne @ Gourmantic recently posted..Night Noodle Markets – Crave Sydney in the WetMy Profile

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

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    [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Mark Wiens, David Hogan Jr and Jiyeon Juno Kim, Nok :) . Nok :) said: RT @migrationology Midnight Market Madness at Hanoi's Long Bien Market http://su.pr/2ccVU5 #travel #lp #MatadorN [...]

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    [...] like Long Bien Market in Hanoi, Samrong opens extremely early in the morning for distribution and then begins to settle [...]

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    [...] Hanoi’s biggest central food distribution market is known as Long Bien Market. [...]

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    [...] Garak Market is the biggest and craziest distribution wholesale food market in Seoul. Food comes to this market from around the entire country to supply the city. It’s so big, that it actually just appears to be a bunch of warehouses. It’s quite a bit more organized than a market like Samrong or Long Bien. [...]

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