This is Part I of a 2 part series of a wondrous hike through the gorgeous 2000 year old paradise rice terraces of Mayoyao where one is not just a tourist but a family friend to the magnificent rising amphitheater of Batad, in the Ifugao province of the Philippines.
I sloppily released a mouthful of bright red beetle juice saliva onto the ground as I struggled to keep my balance on the mud bogged trail.
“In Ifugao, American country music is very popular,” said my guide Efren. “At a cafe in Phoenix,” was emitted from his cell phone speaker by a random country singer.
I chuckled as I told Efren,
“Phoenix is where I am from,”
and we both laughed pretty hard. Our location in the Philippines was somewhere between the town of Mayoyao and the village of Magulon where the conditions, atmosphere, and culture was close to opposite of that in Phoenix, Arizona.
“How many turns do we have to make to get to the next village?” Efren asked me.
“I have no idea,” I replied as we continued to walk on what was becoming a rather monotonous trail with turns and bends around mountains, landslides, and streams.
“Only two turns,” he said, “left and right.” We laughed again enjoying ourselves amidst our sweat drenched bodies.
The day before, a guide had asked me if I wanted to hike through some remote villages surrounded by rice terraces and then cross a mountain saddle where virtually no tourists or even locals venture. The idea intrigued me and it was now 8 am, we had been hiking for a couple hours en route to Magulon.
On the trail, I passed a few old ladies with heavy loads slowly carrying their produce to Mayoyao and I saw men in the most gnarly positions pinpointing where it was that there was a block of water flow in the irrigation system, hindering the rice terraces. Along the hike, I saw locals living life, doing things they needed to do to survive and provide for themselves and their families.
Around mid day we reached the village of Magulon, briefly mingling with excited local children and visiting the village school along the way. I took a rest at the home of Benni (who would be my new guide). I welcomed into my belly some local grown rice mixed with green beans from the garden, as some much needed calories.
About an hour break and with two chickens I involuntarily purchased in Magulon (for the glorious thought of eating), we set off towards the next village of Patyay.
Part II soon to come!
-Migration Mark
Even in Baguio, country music is popular, as well as the fashion. I don’t think I’ve ever seen people in the lowlands wear cowboy boots as much.
Ditto for Sagada.
Yah, it is so interesting to hear country music in a remote village in the Philippines. Great stuff.
What’s the fastest way to travel to Mayoyao coming from Manila? Been to Banaue and Batad several times already but Mayoyao seems so far and remote. I sure hope it’s still the way it is as seen in your gorgeous photos.
Hey Gary, it’s definitely an incredible place! If you are up for it, you should hike from Batad to Mayoyao (you’ll need a guide – but cheap), it’s quite strenuous but worth every minute of beauty. From the nearest road to Batad, you can also catch a truck heading towards Mayoyao (I had a guide that accompanied me the whole way, and I just paid him a few dollars a day). Nothing is too quick, but it’s worth it to get there. When I was there, I was the only tourist, it was incredible! Hope you have an awesome time!